RV Power Kits & Lithium Batteries

Campervan Power Systems & Lithium Battery Kits

Electrical is the part of a van build people redo. We see it in the shop constantly — someone brings in a rig with a 12V bank cobbled together from three brands, a bus bar behind a cabinet nobody can reach, and no way to tell what's actually drawing power. The move that fixed this for us was going to integrated 48V architecture, which is why we stock the EcoFlow Power Kit line end to end: the 3.6 kW Gen 1 kits in 5, 10, and 15 kWh, the 5 kVA Gen 2 hub, 2 kWh and 5 kWh LFP battery packs, the Power Dock for expanding past three batteries, and the Power Link for tank and sensor monitoring. One hub handles inverter, DC-DC alternator charging, solar MPPT, and shore power, so you're wiring to one box instead of six. Every kit here ships free to the lower 48, and everything is the same gear we install in customer vans in Roanoke — including the 48V air conditioner cable that lets a rooftop unit run straight off a battery port.

How to Choose a Van Power System

1. Size the battery bank around your worst night, not your average day

Don't start with watts — start with a spreadsheet of overnight loads. A 12V compressor fridge is roughly 500–700 Wh/day. A diesel or gas air heater is nearly free electrically (the Espar AS3 draws 6–26 W running). The load that changes everything is air conditioning: a 12V rooftop unit like the Climate Command RTAC12 pulls up to 58 amps at 12V — call it 700 W continuous while the compressor is running. That's why we tell anyone pairing an air conditioner with a Power Kit to start at the 10 kWh kit, and to go 15 kWh if you want to sleep through a Virginia August without the generator conversation. A 5 kWh kit is right for a fridge, lights, fans, laptops, and an induction burner used briefly.

2. 48V vs. 12V is a wire-gauge and heat decision

The EcoFlow batteries are 51.2V nominal, and that's the point. At 48V you move the same power at a quarter of the current, so cable runs get smaller, lugs get smaller, and the whole system runs cooler under load. The 5 kVA Gen 2 hub still gives you 13.6V/100A and 26.4V/60A DC outputs for your normal 12V house circuits, so you're not re-engineering your fridge or your fans. The one place this matters most: a 48V rooftop A/C draws about 15 A instead of 58 A. That is the difference between 2/0 cable and a reasonable run.

3. Match the hub to your charging sources

The 5 kVA Power Hub (Gen 2) does 4000 W / 5000 VA continuous AC output with a 10 kVA 100 ms surge, which will start most 13.5k BTU compressors and run an induction cooktop. Its solar input port 1 accepts 13–60V at 100A (4000 W), with two more ports at 1600 W each. Alternator charging runs up to 4800 W total across three inputs — meaningful if you drive most days and want the engine doing the heavy lifting instead of the roof. The Gen 1 3.6 kW hub is the value play when your loads are modest and you don't need 5 kVA of surge.

4. Plan the physical layout before you buy batteries

Each Power Hub has three LFP battery ports, so three 5 kWh packs (15 kWh) is the ceiling without help. The EcoFlow Power Dock breaks that ceiling — up to nine batteries, 45 kWh, plus two 48V DC appliance outputs. Batteries are heavy and want to live low and between the axles: a 5 kWh pack is significant weight, and a 2 kWh pack is 37.7 lbs at 13.7 x 7.5 x 11.2 in. If your floor plan is tight, stack 2 kWh packs in a garage bay rather than forcing 5 kWh packs into a bench.

5. Cold weather: check the charge window

LFP will not accept charge below freezing without heating. The EcoFlow 2 kWh pack has built-in auto heating rated to operate down to -4°F, which is the spec that matters if you ski or chase elk in November. Discharge temperature range on the 5 kWh pack is -4°F to 122°F. Park the bank inside the insulated envelope, not in an uninsulated skirt box.

6. Buy the monitoring at the same time

The Power Link ($399) takes voltage-type, resistance-type, and 4-wire RTD sensors — fresh, grey, propane, whatever you're running — and puts them on the Console, PowerInsight, or the app alongside your battery state of charge. Adding it later means pulling panels back off. Two Power Links per hub is the max.

Frequently Asked Questions

How many kWh do I actually need for a van with air conditioning? Ten kilowatt-hours is the practical floor, fifteen is comfortable. A 12V rooftop A/C on a 10 kWh bank running intermittently overnight in humid heat will use a large fraction of the bank; on 15 kWh you have margin plus your fridge and fans. If you go 48V A/C — the Webasto Cool Top Trail 36G or the Climate Command RTAC48 — your runtime roughly triples for the same bank because you're pulling ~15 A instead of ~58 A.

Can I run a rooftop air conditioner directly off the Power Kit without the inverter? Yes, and you should. The 48-Volt Air Conditioner Cable (4-post to bare wire, 20 ft, $299) plugs into any of the three battery ports on the Power Hub, giving the A/C the full 100A @ 48V of that port. This keeps the inverter out of the loop and leaves the full DC output of your Smart Distribution Panel (1000 W @ 12V or 1600 W @ 24V) free for house loads. Note the cable ships with the EcoFlow connector pre-assembled on one end and bare wire on the other — no ring terminals included, so plan your crimps.

Do I still need a separate solar charge controller and DC-DC charger? No. The Power Hub integrates the inverter/charger, MPPT solar input, and alternator charging in one unit. That's most of the appeal: fewer boxes, fewer fused runs, one app. You still need appropriately sized fusing and a correctly specified alternator connection — on a modern Sprinter or Transit, that's a conversation about the vehicle's smart charging system, not just wire gauge.

Is the 30A or the 50A distribution panel right for a camper van? For nearly every van, the 30A panel is correct, and EcoFlow's own guidance agrees. The 50A Gen 2 panel is split-phase (L1, L2, N) with 16 controllable circuits and makes sense on large Class B+ or motorhome builds. Also worth knowing: the 50A panel does not ship with branch circuit breakers or extra DC fuses — three DC main fuses are included, and you source the rest per the manual.

Can I expand later, or do I have to buy it all up front? Expand later. The batteries are modular and hot-swap enabled, and the Power Dock exists specifically so you can go from three batteries to nine without changing hubs. Buy the hub and panel that match your ceiling, then add capacity as the build grows. Note the Power Dock's connecting cable to the hub is sold separately and is version-specific — 5 kVA hubs use a different battery power cable than the 3.6 kW hubs.

Do these kits ship free, and how long do they take? All EcoFlow items ship free anywhere in the lower 48. The 5 kVA kits with 30A panels typically ship in 5–7 business days after processing. Freight and lead times on the largest kits vary — call the shop and we'll tell you what's actually on the dock.

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