NW Conversions 24 Gallon Ford Transit Wheel Well Water Tank - Right (TR-R-24)

The passenger-side Transit tank. Same Transit-specific arch profile as the TR-L-24, mirrored.

Transit builds tend to put the galley on the driver side because the slider is on the right, which pushes the water tank across to the passenger side. The TR-R-24 is the tank for that layout: 24 gallons, 44.5" long, contoured for the Transit passenger-side arch.

Because it lives near the slider door, this is also the easiest Transit tank to gravity-fill from outside — a short run to a flush-mount fill port on the passenger flank and you are done.

Should you buy this tank, or a different one in the range?

• Buy the TR-R-24 if you have a Ford Transit and the tank belongs on the passenger side.
• Buy the TR-L-24 for the driver-side version.
• Buy the TR-C-24 if you want a centered tank over the hump.
• Add a Transit undercarriage tank if you want a second, separate supply without losing more floor.

Confirmed fitment

Specifications

These tanks are not pressure vessels. They must be vented to atmosphere — a sealed tank will balloon on a hot day and collapse inward when the pump draws it down.

What ships to you

• (1) TR-R-24 24 gallon rotomolded tank
• Fittings, hose and mounting hardware sold separately

Installing it: what actually happens

Plan the fill first. With the tank on the passenger side you can run a 1.5" gravity fill almost straight out through the lower body panel — but you must stay clear of the slider door track and the factory wiring that runs the sill.

Everything else is standard: plywood pan across the floor ribs, bench-drilled ports, straps into the wall ribs.

• Route the gravity fill clear of the slider track and the sill harness.
• Bench-drill only the ports you will use.
• Pan across the floor ribs; never bolt directly to rib peaks.
• Draw from the low 1/2" open-end port for full usable capacity.

Questions we get asked about this part

Do I have to drill the ports myself?

On the wheel-well tanks the 1/2" NPT ports arrive open and ready to thread. The 1.5" ports are spun closed at the factory so you only open the ones your plumbing actually uses. Open them with a hole saw on the bench, before the tank goes anywhere near the van, and vacuum the shavings out. Plastic chips inside a fresh water tank are a mistake you only make once.

Does the tank need a vent?

Yes. It is designed to run unpressurized. Run a vent line from the top 1.5" port up above the maximum fill level and out through the floor or a body vent. Skip it and the tank will deform on a hot day, then pull its walls in when the pump runs.

How much weight am I adding to the van?

Water weighs roughly 8.34 lb per gallon, so 24 gallons is about 200 lb of payload once full, on top of the dry weight of the tank. Put that number in your build budget before you order rather than after — it is the most commonly forgotten figure in a van conversion.

Can I drink out of it?

The vessel itself is BPA-free food-grade polyethylene, so the tank is potable-rated. What actually determines whether your water is safe to drink is everything downstream of it: the fill port, the hose, the pump and the filtration. We plumb potable systems with NSF-61 rated hose and a carbon block at the tap.

Pairs well with

• Van water tanks and plumbing — the rest of the NW Conversions range

Sold and shipped by Campervan Parts R Us, the parts counter of Noke Van Co. — a working van conversion shop in Roanoke, Virginia. If you are unsure whether this fits your van, email us the year, model and wheelbase and we will check it against a build sheet before you order.