NW Conversions Toyota Tacoma 11 Gallon Wheel Well Water Tank (TOY-11)

Only 7.25 inches wide, shaped to hug the Tacoma’s passenger-side bed wheel well — and it comes with the brackets.

Truck bed water storage usually means a jerry can rolling around your gear. This is the alternative: a rotomolded 11-gallon tank contoured to the Tacoma’s passenger-side bed wheel well, 48" long and just 7.25" wide, so it disappears against the bed wall and leaves the floor clear.

Unlike most tanks in this range, the mounting hardware is included — four stainless laser-cut brackets, 3/8" stainless hardware and 3/8" rivnuts. You supply the rivnut tool.

Should you buy this tank, or a different one in the range?

• Buy the TOY-11 if you have a second- or third-generation Tacoma and want plumbed water in the bed instead of jugs.
• Check your drawer system first — it is designed to coexist with most common bed drawers and bed stiffener kits, but stack heights vary.
• Look at the galley tanks if you are building a camper shell interior rather than mounting against the bed wall.

Confirmed fitment

Specifications

These tanks are not pressure vessels. They must be vented to atmosphere — a sealed tank will balloon on a hot day and collapse inward when the pump draws it down.

What ships to you

• (1) TOY-11 11 gallon rotomolded tank
• (4) Stainless steel laser-cut mounting brackets
• Stainless steel 3/8" hardware
• 3/8" rivnuts
• A rivnut installation tool is required and is not included

Installing it: what actually happens

This is the one tank in the range where the hardware is done for you, and it changes the job completely: instead of fabricating a cradle you are setting four rivnuts into the bed wall and bolting the brackets up.

Buy or borrow a proper rivnut tool. Cheap plier-style setters struggle with 3/8" rivnuts in the gauge of steel a Tacoma bed uses, and a rivnut that spins in its hole is a very annoying thing to remove.

• You need a 3/8" rivnut tool — not supplied, and worth the money.
• All the working ports face the tailgate end, which keeps fill and draw accessible with the tailgate down.
• Prime and seal any bare metal you drill; a truck bed is a wet, salted environment.
• Check clearance against your drawer system before you set the rivnuts, not after.

Questions we get asked about this part

Does the tank need a vent?

Yes. It is designed to run unpressurized. Run a vent line from the top 1.5" port up above the maximum fill level and out through the floor or a body vent. Skip it and the tank will deform on a hot day, then pull its walls in when the pump runs.

How much weight am I adding to the van?

Water weighs roughly 8.34 lb per gallon, so 11 gallons is about 92 lb of payload once full, on top of the dry weight of the tank. Put that number in your build budget before you order rather than after — it is the most commonly forgotten figure in a van conversion.

Do I need to drill the truck bed?

Yes. The brackets mount with 3/8" rivnuts, which means drilling the bed wall. Treat the bare metal before you set them — a drilled, untreated hole in a truck bed will rust.

What does IAPMO TS 4 certified mean?

It is a plumbing standard for non-metallic water tanks administered by IAPMO. It tells you the tank has been tested for use in a water system, which matters if your build is ever inspected.

Can I return it if it does not fit?

NW Conversions accepts returns up to 90 days on this tank if it has not been installed or altered, in the original packaging with tracking provided. A 20% restocking fee applies and return shipping is the customer’s responsibility. Dry-fit before you drill anything.

Pairs well with

• Van water tanks and plumbing — the rest of the NW Conversions range

Sold and shipped by Campervan Parts R Us, the parts counter of Noke Van Co. — a working van conversion shop in Roanoke, Virginia. If you are unsure whether this fits your van, email us the year, model and wheelbase and we will check it against a build sheet before you order.